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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Yes, another virgin WC'er pimping out his 800D, :D.

    Budget £230

    Specs

    Athlon II 640 (AM3)
    M4A78-E

    Here's what i am thinking so far,







    Please feel free to make suggestions, but i cant be a penny over £230, thankyou.

  2. #2
    SpecialTech Mod
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    First off, I presume you allready have some barbs or compression fittings, if not you'll need to get some, so look here for ones that go with your tubing choice.

    Request that ST get in some of MagiCool's thicker 360 rads, as they and Aquacomputer get their rads from the same manufacturer (i.e. their the same rad with different brand name and finishings on them) both do a 30mm and a 45mm depth rad, the "workings" are the same in both (that is both 30mm's have the same insides, and both 45mm's have the same insides, the 30mm's have different insides from the 45mm's, confused yet?)

    Unless you're pushing your system with a fairly high overvolt you shouldn't need the Mosfet block. So unless your current overclock is voltage limited it's a needless purchase.

    And correct me if I'm wrong but your NB/SB are both passively cooled, so again unless you're giving a fairly large frequency bump you shouldn't need two blocks, possibly (probably, depending on what you're doing to your poor MoBo) one for the northbridge, but southbridge is generally just in-charge of sata, usb, etc. thing's that don't need/can't overclock... making your second NB/SB1 redundant, and at 20 quid plus vat...

    The EK 100 reservoir, would look better with the blocks than the nickel Phobya one, and is cheaper and it's better thought out (it is rev2 after all).

    I'm not sure how the OCZ block levels up against the competition, but I'd be more inclined to go with an EK Supreme LT as it's considered a good budget block and is only slightly more expensive.

    You haven't got a hugely restrictive loop, so 800lph pump is overkill, I personally have gone for a Lang pump 'cause they're soooo damn nice, but if you're going for a budget pump (if I had been going for a budget pump) it would be EK again.

    Honestly, honestly, honestly, I don't work for Eddie!!!!!


    In summary:
    RAD=I can't find anyone that does the slim Aquacomputer or the thick MagiCool... so can't comment there...
    Scratch the mosfet block = saving of £19.99
    Scratch one(1) chipset block = saving of £23.99
    Phobya res -> EK res = saving of £2.33
    OCZ block -> EK block = addition cost of £14.00
    Phobya pump -> EK pump = saving of £6.43
    Overall saving = £38.74 Sorry Steve

    Of course if you haven't got fittings, they'll be extra on top, but overall that's more the direction I'd head in.

    edit#1And with that saving, you could upgrade from a budget block to one of the best blocks there is (EK again I'm affraid) the Supreme HF and have still made a saving...

    edit#2Found both 30mm's available from a retailer, not both 45mm's, pricing favoured the MagiCool by £2.12

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by asura
    First off, I presume you allready have some barbs or compression fittings, if not you'll need to get some, so look here for ones that go with your tubing choice.

    "i'm sure i ordered barbs with all the stuff, have i not?"

    Unless you're pushing your system with a fairly high overvolt you shouldn't need the Mosfet block. So unless your current overclock is voltage limited it's a needless purchase.

    "My CPU is .21 volts over stock."

    And correct me if I'm wrong but your NB/SB are both passively cooled, so again unless you're giving a fairly large frequency bump you shouldn't need two blocks, possibly (probably, depending on what you're doing to your poor MoBo) one for the northbridge, but southbridge is generally just in-charge of sata, usb, etc. thing's that don't need/can't overclock... making your second NB/SB1 redundant, and at 20 quid plus vat...

    That second one should not be there, that was prnt screen error.

    The EK 100 reservoir, would look better with the blocks than the nickel Phobya one, and is cheaper and it's better thought out (it is rev2 after all).

    "I'll take you up on that one."

    I'm not sure how the OCZ block levels up against the competition, but I'd be more inclined to go with an EK Supreme LT as it's considered a good budget block and is only slightly more expensive.

    "I've read some reviews, and it is only outperformed by 1-2C by a £65 block."

    You haven't got a hugely restrictive loop, so 800lph pump is overkill, I personally have gone for a Lang pump 'cause they're soooo damn nice, but if you're going for a budget pump (if I had been going for a budget pump) it would be EK again.

    "I plan on putting a 480 WC'd, and a 120 rad, so the pump is necessary "

    Honestly, honestly, honestly, I don't work for Eddie!!!!!


    "In summary:
    RAD=I can't find anyone that does the slim Aquacomputer or the thick MagiCool... so can't comment there...
    Scratch the mosfet block = saving of £19.99
    Phobya res -> EK res = saving of £2.33
    Overall saving = £22.32 Sorry Steve"

    Of course if you haven't got fittings, they'll be extra on top, but overall that's more the direction I'd head in.

    I think i already got them.

    edit#1And with that saving, you could upgrade from a budget block to one of the best blocks there is (EK again I'm affraid) the Supreme HF and have still made a saving...

    edit#2Found both 30mm's available from a retailer, not both 45mm's, pricing favoured the MagiCool by £2.12
    Please read my edits on your post, it was easier. :D

    I was told by someone that using 7/16 tubes with 1/2 barbs gives a really snug fit, only need a pot of hot water to slip them on.

  4. #4
    SpecialTech Mod VileLasagna's Avatar
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    Eeewwww! Drop the barbs. Compressions are the way to go.

    Not sure I agree with Asura on the EK res being shinier than the Phobya one but, oh well. I'm also partial to drive bay reservoirs for the added comfort.

    On rads and blocks I think Asura is on the money.

    On the pump, however, if low budget is the mission, XSPC has some nice pump and res combos, which can help you saving a few more pennies.

    Finally: On Feser one, I have Feser One purple and I was quite pissed off at Feser when I found out that's blue under UV light. So you might want to double check the red one, in case you want to fit some glowsticks in that case some time.

  5. #5
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    I see the barbs now, wasn't paying that much attention to the items text; I can be a bit blond at times.

    A lot of people do that, a lot of people have also done that and wished they hadn't, the "water" in your loop has a variable and high(ish) temperature, this weakens the tubing, please, please, please use hose clips/jubilee clips/anything to hold the tubing on the barbs. Or as HorriblePenne says, compressions.

    Also in line with DistastefulMacaroni a pump/res combo can be a good way of lowering costs.

    How old was the review and what block(s) was it against, as it doesn't perform as well as a DTech fuzion V1 see here and the DTech Fuzion V2 doesn't perform very well over here

    And don't worry too much about adding a GPU block or an extra rad or two, they're really low restriction compared to the choice making of a CPU block. If you haven't seen it I'd like to also recommend you to Skinnee's Labs I really am trying to push you away from the OCZ block. It will work, and it will work better than air, but it'll be several degrees worse that a newer block of a similar cost (hence Spekletech lowering the cost to match it's performance)

  6. #6
    SpecialTech Mod Squirrel-666's Avatar
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    http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...79&cat=0&page= you could grab yourself 1 of those mate 750lph then you save on a seperate res and pump as its all in 1 combo the x20 750 bay res pump ive just bought 1 should be here thursday had to pre-order it none in stock,YES compression fittings are imho best cant comment on tubing thou always used thermochill myself 1/2ID big stuff :D

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Squirrel-666
    http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...79&cat=0&page= you could grab yourself 1 of those mate 750lph then you save on a seperate res and pump as its all in 1 combo the x20 750 bay res pump ive just bought 1 should be here thursday had to pre-order it none in stock,YES compression fittings are imho best cant comment on tubing thou always used thermochill myself 1/2ID big stuff :D
    Unfortunately I had that and I had to dremel the tabs off the top drive bay on my 800d to make it fit. The tabs on the 800d are monstrously huge compared to every other case I have seen.

    Also the holes that it uses line up with the tool-less drive bay clips not the free holes just underneath so it doesn't hold very securely as you only screw it in from the back side. Or do as I did and mess around with the tool-less clip for hours on end until I finally got it off without breaking it, then bent back the metal bit so I could just the hole to secure the drive bay properly.

  8. #8
    SpecialTech Mod Spongeblunt's Avatar
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    I'll just drop this in here regarding the Feser 1:

    It's known to cause clogging and build-ups due to the additives used, you should consider using another coolant such as the Nanoxia or PC ICE.

  9. #9
    Accounts Manager Steve's Avatar
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    Don't agree with that Spongey, we sell shed loads of Feser fluid, never had a single customer complaint! Probably a bad batch got out last year and dented the name. A bit like the Primochill fluid debacle when every single bottle we received had bits floating in it. Be assured both the Feser and Primochill we now sell are spot on. Nanoxia is growing in popularity and seems pretty reliable.

  10. #10
    SpecialTech Mod VileLasagna's Avatar
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    I was going to give Nanoxia a go when I heard you couldn't find that pink Feser bottle. I've read about the incidents with both Feser and Primochill. Although I did get a bit wary of Primochill I'm sure Speckletech customer support would be there for me if something like that DID happen.
    In the end I got a bottle of Feser One Purple and so far my only complaint is with Feser's UV reactive which is blue despite the colour of the coolant itself (and I'm kinda pissed off with blue). You can be sure that when I do change my coolant some time next year I'll check and document any residue build up in my blocks, fittings and tubing


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